The closest thing to an institution in this city, where civil servants and imams, truck drivers and factory workers jockey for space in this crammed, down-to-earth, brown-and-green-hued eatery marked out by narrow communal tables running along the length of the walls.
The food is mostly rice and more rice (everything else seems like an afterthought), but people gorge on dishes as as nasi telor petis (rice with spicy, petis (pungent, black fermented shrimp paste typical of East Javanese fare)-infused boiled egg and empal, sweetened fried beef), nasi gule kambing (rice with goat curry) and nasi soto babat (rice drenched in tripe soto) as though they were trying to lay hold--unwittingly, perhaps--of a Proustian moment.
For what it's worth, it’s a place that meets the world evenly at eye level, an egalitarian angle at once charming and potent.
Opening hours: 06.30 – 15.30
