Pundits swear this is the home of best belida (generally acknowledged as a more superior fish than the commonly used tenggiri) pempek. The fundamentals are certainly there: serviceable, if not slightly bland coko, and fish cakes that are somewhat less compact in texture than the Beringin (or Vico's for that matter) version. The tekwan (clear broth with fish balls made of sago flour mixed with minced knife fish), however, is simply superb. The mom-and-pop environs add a feeling of authenticity—what else, after all, is more satisfying than a class act in small doses?
Eating Around The World
