This sprawling banquet table-style restaurant is a standby for consistently tasty seafood, from squid in butter sauce and crabs ‘Padang’-style that brim with sensational flavors, to solid soups and sautéed veggies that often knock you silly.
The kitchen appears to conjure food from air; dining there is a virile, dynamic blank that we can fill in ourselves, taking on faith all those dishes minted from fresh live objects and from staring at other people's tables as though they were the feast of the gods.
The service often leaves much to be desired, as does the level of chaos, but the swoon-inducing chow more than makes up for them.
