Another one of those local anomalies that forces me to genuinely question my palate—a sobering experience, at any rate. The kwetiau goreng in this low-key eatery, lauded as an essential Medan experience, boasts fried wide noodles as austere as it is plain—yet I’m frankly undecided on which is the truer adjective.
If austerity, as in the case of Bihun Bebek Kumango, is its intention, then they have succeeded brilliantly. After all, our palates tend to be oversaturated with fiery, blustering spices we are not trained to value clean, clear-tasting, unadorned flavors. To be fair, there is also much charm in being part of a city that has just woken up, even if it often means watching old men (and women) shiftlessly sip their coffee while reading the newspaper and servers who ignore you completely.
Opening hours: 5.00 – 10.00
